8/12/2023 0 Comments Lattice work patterns![]() Now, following the same method of stitching, cross the grid with diagonal laid stitches. When you finish the second layer, you’ll have a nice boxy grid. The arrows map the direction of the stitches. Work the vertical laid threads the same way you worked the horizontal ones, stepping to the side for each stitch. In this case, since I’m working on even-weave fabric, I’ve already counted out the spacing, so I don’t need to start in the center. You can also start with your first vertical stitch just below the very center of the last horizontal line, and build your vertical stitches out from there, to ensure that the vertical stitches are centered over the horizontal. ![]() Your first vertical stitch should be just inside the corner, not a whole stitch-width away. When you reach the base of your filling area and you’ve completed the horizontal stitches, take the corner to begin the vertical stitches in the filling. Don’t mark the whole line, though – just mark enough so that you can see where each laid stitch should begin and end. If your marking is small and done with a light pencil in the direction of your laid stitches, you should be able to cover the marking up easily enough. To achieve equally spacing on plain-weave fabric, you can either eyeball it (estimate the spacing by looking at it), or (for better accuracy), you can measure the distance with a ruler, and mark of the spacing on the sides of the filled area. Equal spacing is crucial to a satisfactory finish with any kind of lattice stitch.Īchieving equal spacing on even-weave fabric is easy enough – you just have to count the threads of the fabric. The trick to a nice-looking lattice filling like this is that your laid stitches are equally spaced. “Laid threads” are made with stitches taken in this side-stepping manner.Īfter coming up at C, take the needle and thread to the back at D. This stepping to the side for the next stitch instead of crossing again across the back of the fabric with a long stitch is called “laying” your threads. When working any kind of lattice filling, instead of taking a long stitch from A to B, and then coming up again under A to take another long stitch, step down to C for the beginning of the next stitch. When working on linen or other fabric, use a hoop or frame when working lattice fillings.įor needles, I used a crewel needle in size 3, switching to a size 22 tapestry needle for the final step. It’s a great fabric for working samplers and the like! I’m using #5 perle cotton in three colors for the sample, but you can easily use four colors (and if you wanted to get Really Wild, you could use as many as six colors, but that might be a bit much…) So when you play with Griffin Stitch, feel free to experiment with different threads, ok?įor this sample, I’m working on Legacy’s round yarn linen, which is a nice, all purpose, medium-to-heavy 25 count linen with very plump threads. You can add metallics in here, for a bit of glamor and sparkle, too. I love this particular lattice filling technique! I’m almost tempted to relegate it to the “cute” category, but depending on the way you mix your colors, the threads you choose to use, the size of the area you’re filling, and whatnot, the look of the stitch can change quite a bit. As with most lattice fillings, it’s easiest worked on an even-weave fabric, but it can also be worked on a plain weave fabric, and I’ll talk about that as we go through this tutorial. Griffin Stitch is a lattice filling used in hand embroidery, counted work, and canvas work. This stitch is particularly fun, because it’s colorful, it’s a little complex, but it still works up fairly quickly. Time to play with a stitch and have a bit of Stitch Fun!
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